To become a goog Fashion Designer in India, you need to clear NIFT entrance examination.

The subjects which are in NIFT Syallabus are:-

English

Maths

Reasoning

General Knowledge

Drawing Skills

Color Rendering

Above all, you should have deep interest in drawing and sketching which will help you to score good marks and a good rank in the national exam.

The cutting process of apparel is as follows:

• Fabric is received from dyeing finishing
• Cutting ratio is received from merchandiser
• Cutting quantity plan is made
• Lay planning is done
• Marker making is done
• Marker ratio is made
• Quantity of fabric spreading is decided upon
• Lay per cutting is decided upon
• Fabric is taken from store
• Fabric is checked
• Fabric is spread on cutting table
• Marker setting on lay is done
• Fabric cutting is done
• Numbering is done
• Cutting quality is checked
• Storing and bundling are done
• Bundles are sent to the sewing section for bulk production to be carried out.

Fashion Designing is a very interesting field and can turn into a good career if training is received from the right sources.

The basic skills needed to be a Fashion Designer are:

• Creativity and Artistic Skills
• Great Drawing Ability
• A Keen Eye For Details
• Visualization Skills
• Interpersonal and Communication Skills
• Great Business Sense
• Interest in Trends
• Good Competitive Spirit

The various Sociological Factors that can lead to Fashion Change are:

Social Norms, Education, Environment, Age, Changing Values and Trends, Traditions and Customs, Mass Media, Fashion Education, Work, Income, Inspiration, Leisure Activities, Social Situations, Influence from Family, and so on.

The Process of Sample Development in Fashion Designing is thus:

• Muslin: This stands for a Dummy Sample.
• Fit Sample: This is the First Sample or Parent Pattern.
• Sew-by Sample: A Pre-production, Costing Sample.
• Sales Sample: A Counter Sample.
• Photo Sample: Editorial Sample. Model Size.
• Size Run: A Sizing Sample.
• Top of Production: TOP Sample.

Fashion Cycle is the Life Cycle of a particular Fashion.

Its various stages are as follow:

• Introduction Stage: This is the stage when a particular fashion or style gets introduced to the people.
• Rise Stage: Fashions that have potential rise post their introduction, in the second stage, that is the Rise Stage. This stage is marked by a good demand for the Fashion product.
• Peak Stage: There comes a time after the Rise Stage when the rising Fashion is at the peak of its popularity and following. This is the Peak Stage of the Fashion.
• Decline Stage: There comes a time when the demand for a certain Fashion in the market starts declining. People tire of the same Fashion flooding the market, and they are no longer interested in paying a high price for the same. Fashion retailers therefore mark down the price of merchandise.
• Obsolescence Stage: This Stage comes when consumers are no longer interested in the same Fashion, and start looking for new looks. Even low prices cannot attract consumers anymore.

The matter of Fashion is an interesting subject that can turn out to be a lucrative career, if pursued well and with the right guidance.

Two Methods of Measurement of Yarn Hairiness are as follow:

Uster Tester 3- H

The principle of measuring is based on evaluation with the help of diffracted light. The hairiness value H is defined as the total length of all the fibre ends that stick out in cm, related to a yarn section which is of 1cm length.

Hairiness is counted on both the sides of the yarn’s silhouette. Therefore, the tested values have high reliability factor.

Since the device uses an infrared laser, influences by light absorption cannot be excluded.

Hairiness Tester G 566

This device applies the Photoelectric Principle to determine yarn hairiness. Fibres that stick out are sensed by Diodes as shadows.

If Fashion Designing is your passion, here is a list of Fashion Designing Institutes that you can consider.

Abrasion resistance is the ability of a fabric to resist surface wear caused by flat rubbing contact with another material. There are two different test methods commonly used by the textile industry to assess abrasion resistance: Wyzenbeek and Martindale 

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You are here:   Home  Applications  Test Types  Tensile Test  Textile Grab Test Equipment

Textile Grab Test Equipment

[Textile Grab Test Fixture Diagram]

The most common tensile test used in the textile industry is called the grab test. The grab test method is a modification of a standard tensile test for use with woven and non woven textile fabrics that measures ultimate strength and elongation. A typical tensile test clamps the end of the specimen, which is effective when testing metals, plastics, and other traditional solid materials. However, this type of gripping introduces edge effects if used for textile materials, giving inaccurate tensile data and does not provide a correct measure of the bulk fabric material properties. The grab test eliminates edge effects by clamping the center of the sample width, away from the sample ends, and using jaws smaller than the sample width. As with all textile tests, alignment of the grip surfaces with the plane of the fabric sample is crucial for achieving accurate results. However, the orientation of the fabric in the sample is only significant if the material exhibits anisotropic material properties, which would give different strength values for off axis loading. Textile Grab Strength Test Standards In accordance with ASTM and ISO standards, data from grab test experiments is used to determine effective fabric strength, which is the fabric strength in a specific width together with the strength contributed by adjacent material. Popular grab test standards are ASTM D751 for coated fabrics, ASTM D1683 for woven apparel fabric seams, ASTM D2208 for soft, boarded, sueded, or embossed leather, ASTM D5034 for textile fabrics, and ISO 13934-2 for fabrics, and ISO 13935-2 for fabrics and made-up textiles, such as clothing apparel. Textiles tend to be difficult to test without slippage or jaw face breaks due to over- tightening. Pneumatic grips offer ease of use, productivity, and enhanced repeatability. Pneumatic action grips also allow the user to set clamp pressure. Common grab tests require special 25.4 mm x 50.8 mm (1 in x 2 in) front jaw faces, with the opposing jaw face at least as big. Grip pressure and specimen alignment are critical. Too much pressure produces premature breaks, and low pressure causes specimen slippage or breaks at or near the grip jaw faces. Slack correction is needed or the specimen is held too loosely in the grips at the start of the test. Tabletop tensile test machines are a good fit for textile tensile tests in general because they feature CRE (constant rate of extension or constant test speed) capabilities. They meet and exceed ASTM D76 textile test machine standards.

The original idea of the photoelectric scanning or Fibrograph method has been developed by Hertel in 1940 for testing cotton lint. This test method is much faster than the array method and is used widely in fiber laboratories for measuring fiber length and length distribution. These tests are performed with a Fibrograph instrument, which is a photoelectric device (fig.).

In Fibrograph, fiber samples are presented in the form of a pair of carefully prepared fringes. The light transmitted through these fringes is monitored byphotoelectric current. The amount of light passing through the fiber sample is linearly proportional to the number of fibers in the light path. The changes in the photoelectric current are recorded graphically in the form of a Fibrogramas shown in Fig. From this Fibrogram various length parameters of practical interest, such as span length, mean length (OM), upper-half mean length (OR) and index of uniformity, given as the ratio of OM to OR, can be analyzed.

[Shirley Photoelectric Modal Stapler]        [Fibrograph]

Preparation of Test Specimen

Test specimen can be prepared from the laboratory sample by on of the following method.

1) Hand Combing Method

Pick up a handful of cotton from the laboratory sample and separate it into two parts by pulling so as to expose a fresh surface of projecting fibers. Holding one of the hand combs in one hand and the opened lump of cotton in the other, transfer some of the projecting fibers on to the comb. Pick fresh lumps of cotton, and proceed in the same manner so that a pair of combs is filled with sufficient quantity of fibers drawn from 8 to 10 randomly picked lumps. Hold one comb in each hand, and untangle and parallelize the projecting fibers by mutual combing. The pair of combed beards constitutes the test specimen.

2) Fibro-Sampler Method

Mount one of the fibro-sample combs in the comb holder of the Fibro sampler, with the teeth uppermost. Place the laboratory sample in the cage and press it against the perforated surface. Maintain the pressure and rotate the sample holder round the drum counter-clockwise through 360°. Remove the loaded comb from the holder. Turn the sample in the cage to expose a fresh surface, and mount fibers in one more comb. Either one or a pair of combed beards constitute the test specimen depending upon the model of the instrument being used.

 Fibrogram:

Fibrogram is an arrangement of fibers from shortest to longest in terms of span lengths. Fibrogram test are required for determining the length uniformity of fibers in the sample of cotton.

At any instant in time, fibers caught by the roller nips will depend on the randomness of their overlapping lengths; therefore, not all the length of a given fiber projects into draft zone. The lengths that project into the draft zone are called the span lengths, and the cumulative frequency distribution of the span length gives the Fibrogram.

[Span length concept 1] [Span length concept 2]

 Digital Fibrograph:

The digital fibrograph gives the tests results in digits or numerical form. Suppose In the 2.5% span the length is 1.14 inch while in the 50 percent span the length is 0.52 inch. The uniformity ratio is 46%.

[eqn digital fibrogram]

[Gigital fibrograph with fibrosampler]

Fibro sampler is used in later models to clamp the fibers on the comb. Fiber sample is put inside the cylinder of sampler. Fiber comb, with 13 needles/inch, is rotated around the fibro sampler, with pressure applied on the cotton, during which it picks up fibers projecting from the holes of sampler. The instrument is consequently insensitive to the presence of very short fibres, and in practice the Fibrogram has its origin at a point representing a length of 0.15 inch (3.8 mm).

Digital Fibrogram may be analyzed graphically to yield various length parameters of interest to the producers and users of cotton. The tangent to the curve at its starting point A cuts OY at P and OX at M. Then OM is the mean length of the fibers in the original population longer than 0.15 inch (3.8 mm). If OP is bisected at Q and the tangent to the curve from Q cuts OX at R, then OR is the upper-half mean length, UHML, and the ratio of OM to OR is a valid index of uniformity.

[Fibrogram of Digital Fibrograph Machine]

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[Md Sohanur Rahman Sobuj]

Md Sohanur Rahman Sobuj

Co-founder , Admin & Author at Textile Study Center Student of Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex)/ Department: Apparel Engineering [Md Sohanur Rahman Sobuj] [Md Sohanur Rahman Sobuj][Md Sohanur Rahman Sobuj] [Md Sohanur Rahman Sobuj]

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TAGS: DIGITAL FIBROGRAPH FIBROGRAPH METHOD PHOTOELECTRIC SCANNING METHOD   1.32KPREVIOUSEffective Length of Cotton Fiber NEXTSpan Length RELATED POSTS [shirley thickness guage machine]

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The original idea of the photoelectric scanning or Fibrograph method has been developed by Hertel in 1940 for testing cotton lint. This test method is much faster than the array method and is used widely in fiber laboratories for measuring fiber length and length distribution. These tests are performed with a Fibrograph instrument, which is a photoelectric device (fig.).

In Fibrograph, fiber samples are presented in the form of a pair of carefully prepared fringes. The light transmitted through these fringes is monitored byphotoelectric current. The amount of light passing through the fiber sample is linearly proportional to the number of fibers in the light path. The changes in the photoelectric current are recorded graphically in the form of a Fibrogramas shown in Fig. From this Fibrogram various length parameters of practical interest, such as span length, mean length (OM), upper-half mean length (OR) and index of uniformity, given as the ratio of OM to OR, can be analyzed.

[Shirley Photoelectric Modal Stapler]        [Fibrograph]

Preparation of Test Specimen

Test specimen can be prepared from the laboratory sample by on of the following method.

1) Hand Combing Method

Pick up a handful of cotton from the laboratory sample and separate it into two parts by pulling so as to expose a fresh surface of projecting fibers. Holding one of the hand combs in one hand and the opened lump of cotton in the other, transfer some of the projecting fibers on to the comb. Pick fresh lumps of cotton, and proceed in the same manner so that a pair of combs is filled with sufficient quantity of fibers drawn from 8 to 10 randomly picked lumps. Hold one comb in each hand, and untangle and parallelize the projecting fibers by mutual combing. The pair of combed beards constitutes the test specimen.

2) Fibro-Sampler Method

Mount one of the fibro-sample combs in the comb holder of the Fibro sampler, with the teeth uppermost. Place the laboratory sample in the cage and press it against the perforated surface. Maintain the pressure and rotate the sample holder round the drum counter-clockwise through 360°. Remove the loaded comb from the holder. Turn the sample in the cage to expose a fresh surface, and mount fibers in one more comb. Either one or a pair of combed beards constitute the test specimen depending upon the model of the instrument being used.

 Fibrogram:

Fibrogram is an arrangement of fibers from shortest to longest in terms of span lengths. Fibrogram test are required for determining the length uniformity of fibers in the sample of cotton.

At any instant in time, fibers caught by the roller nips will depend on the randomness of their overlapping lengths; therefore, not all the length of a given fiber projects into draft zone. The lengths that project into the draft zone are called the span lengths, and the cumulative frequency distribution of the span length gives the Fibrogram.

[Span length concept 1] [Span length concept 2]

 Digital Fibrograph:

The digital fibrograph gives the tests results in digits or numerical form. Suppose In the 2.5% span the length is 1.14 inch while in the 50 percent span the length is 0.52 inch. The uniformity ratio is 46%.

[eqn digital fibrogram]

[Gigital fibrograph with fibrosampler]

Fibro sampler is used in later models to clamp the fibers on the comb. Fiber sample is put inside the cylinder of sampler. Fiber comb, with 13 needles/inch, is rotated around the fibro sampler, with pressure applied on the cotton, during which it picks up fibers projecting from the holes of sampler. The instrument is consequently insensitive to the presence of very short fibres, and in practice the Fibrogram has its origin at a point representing a length of 0.15 inch (3.8 mm).

Digital Fibrogram may be analyzed graphically to yield various length parameters of interest to the producers and users of cotton. The tangent to the curve at its starting point A cuts OY at P and OX at M. Then OM is the mean length of the fibers in the original population longer than 0.15 inch (3.8 mm). If OP is bisected at Q and the tangent to the curve from Q cuts OX at R, then OR is the upper-half mean length, UHML, and the ratio of OM to OR is a valid index of uniformity.